Residential College | false |
Status | 已發表Published |
On mass transport of progressive edge waves | |
Mok,K. M.1; Yeh,Harry2 | |
1999 | |
Source Publication | Physics of Fluids |
ISSN | 1070-6631 |
Volume | 11Issue:10Pages:2906-2924 |
Abstract | The boundary-layer solutions for progressive edge waves on a uniformly sloping beach are derived. The Larangian mass transport in the cross-shore direction is found to be caused by the viscous effect and it changes direction within the boundary layer. For validation of the theoretical model, laboratory experiments are performed. The measured mass transports of mode 0 and 1 edge waves are in good agreement with the theory qualitatively but not quantitatively. The discrepancies appear to be caused by the failure of the theory near the shoreline, where the boundary layer is no longer thin. The inviscid Stokes drift caused by the nonlinear interactions of different edge-wave modes within the potential flow field is also investigated theoretically and verified by experiments. It is found that near-shore circulation cells can be formed by the nonlinear interactions between different progressive edge-wave modes. © 1999 American Institute of Physics. |
DOI | 10.1063/1.870149 |
URL | View the original |
Language | 英語English |
WOS ID | WOS:000082405300013 |
Scopus ID | 2-s2.0-5844241507 |
Fulltext Access | |
Citation statistics | |
Document Type | Journal article |
Collection | University of Macau |
Affiliation | 1.Faculty of Science and Technology,University of Macau,P.O. Box 3001,Macau,Macao 2.Dept. of Civ. and Environ. Eng.,University of Washington,Seattle, WA 98195,United States |
First Author Affilication | Faculty of Science and Technology |
Recommended Citation GB/T 7714 | Mok,K. M.,Yeh,Harry. On mass transport of progressive edge waves[J]. Physics of Fluids, 1999, 11(10), 2906-2924. |
APA | Mok,K. M.., & Yeh,Harry (1999). On mass transport of progressive edge waves. Physics of Fluids, 11(10), 2906-2924. |
MLA | Mok,K. M.,et al."On mass transport of progressive edge waves".Physics of Fluids 11.10(1999):2906-2924. |
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